Late October in Tigoni

As much as we relished the adventure and splendor of our Safari trip, we’re also all enjoying the more settled life in Tigoni and the activities at school. We had an elaborate scavenger hunt birthday party for Lex at our place with a number of his friends, where puzzles and clues took them all over the area to help a conservationist track an escaped leopard and transport her to safety, all while poachers began to encroach. We celebrated Halloween as best we could, in borrowed costumes. There was a sweet parade at school and a rather lackluster trick or treating experience at a mall in town.

Earlier in the month, Jasper’s class had a fun field trip to the Limuru market, where they had to negotiate hard for their products without using English. One group worked in Swahili, and the other in Kenyan Sign Language. The boys also participated in a tennis tournament in town, and did really well!

Carl has been in London and now Oxford for the last two weeks, attending two different conferences related to the work he’s likely to pursue next. He sent us a picture of a very unusual encounter with a fox, who was just wandering the streets of London the other day.

Laikipia and Lake Nakuru

Back in a more innocent time (early 2019), we made plans for different kind of travel year. We intended to spend some time in Rwanda, where Carl and I would both do some teaching at a University there. I have always wanted to take the kids on a safari and had decided on Kenya. I carefully researched the trip and booked it, as we decided this was worth the very substantial expense. When Covid hit, all plans flew out the window, but instead of canceling this one exciting and paid-for week, we pushed it exactly a year forward, hoping there would be a way for us to go. After finding Woodland Star and determining to move to Kenya for the term, I realized that the safari trip, originally planned fairly randomly for the middle of October, fell precisely during the school’s mid-term break. It seemed like it was meant to be.

We set off on Saturday with our driver and guide, David, who was very warm and a fount of knowledge on the flora and fauna of the area. After the long drive up past the equatorial divide, we made it to Laikipia, a semi-arid area of central Kenya. Seemingly, the moment we drove through the gate into the reserve, the wildlife became evident in much greater numbers and frequency than any of us anticipated. I reveled in the opportunity to observe many herds of elephant, and we discovered many types of animals and birds we’d never heard of, much less seen, before. The landscape itself was a wonder, with endless vistas and dramatic lighting around every curve of the road.

Things only got better from there, as we settled into a heavenly little off the grid eco-lodge called El Karama, run by a young family. They are the only lodge located in a smaller conservancy, have a tandem farm operation with dairy cows, fruits and vegetables, and several programs that address the complicated relationship between conservation and local community interests. They also have a little ‘bush school’, so the kids could go off with the staff mid-day between game drives to do activities like beading, clay harvesting and sculpting, bread making, and fishing. All the meals were prepared with the local produce and absolutely delicious. We left a little more padded than we went in.

We were lucky to work with a wonderful guide named Robinson. He had dramatic stories to tell about his life, most notably nearly losing it to a leopard when he was a young and inexperienced herder. He brought us on many memorable drives throughout the area where we encountered scores of animals and birds. One night, we happened upon a group of lions feeding on an Elan and managed to park directly in front of the scene to observe. Something we will likely never forget!

When we reluctantly left Laikipia, we went on a very long and dusty drive to Lake Nakuru, further West. We only stayed the night, but did a couple of drives with David while there to explore the alkaline lake that is teeming with bird life including their famous flamingo, and also storks, spoonbills, and flotillas of white pelican. Sadly, development around the Lake and rising water has diminished this habitat significantly. We also lucked upon a very rare Black Rhino, saw several White Rhino as well, and many lively baboons. After a last tour of the park the next morning, we pressed on toward the famous Masai Mara, the grassy plains in the rift valley that spill over from the southern border of Kenya to become the Serengeti on the Tanzanian side.

Willa at Sunrise

Diani Beach

Our first trip to the Swahili coast and the Indian Ocean took place this week. We had a wonderful time, staying in an AirBnB built in the airy, Swahili manner, with it’s own pool. Our first full day, we went on an excursion to Kisite Marine Reserve on a traditional Dhow boat, and delighted in the snorkeling around some well preserved reefs teeming with life. We also had an amazing lunch on Wasini Island. We were especially proud of Willa for overcoming the initial discomfort of the snorkel gear, only to become a fearless and enthusiastic snorkeler very quickly.

We took tuk tuks around the area to explore the town a bit and the blindingly white beaches and tidepools. We paddled a SUP and Kayak out on the water, and met a good deal of people on the beach eager to make a buck after a dismal year of little income during Covid. We spent an enormous amount of time in the pool at the house, and were taken care of by the very attentive small staff that included a cook. Fisherman brought their wares every morning to the house, so we were incredibly well fed.

Ibrahim, the gentle and kind man who manages the house, also organized a trip up the Congo river, to see the mangroves and wildlife along the banks, and also to visit a small local village upstream. There, we watched the local kids play games (Jasper bravely joined in) and swarm us unrelentingly once we bought and started handing out candies.

The last day, we got one more excursion in, taking a glass-bottomed boat out from the beach to a large sand bar for more snorkeling and fun in the water before heading to the airport. We brought home a suitcase half full on shells, which Willa is eager to distribute at school.

In all, a wonderful and relaxing time in a very different part of Kenya. We feel really lucky we had the chance.

While we are gearing up for a couple of bigger trips this month beginning this Thursday (one to the coast, the other our big safari), so far we’ve stuck closer to home and have been spending time getting to know our community better by hosting dinners and play dates, and visiting friends. Kids continue to enjoy school activities, and all of us are getting involved in the preparations for the end of term performance in early December. The weather is starting to warm up as we head into the Spring in the southern hemisphere. This is also, apparently, a good season to lose a number of teeth, if you are Willa or Lex. The Tigoni tooth fairy has been fairly generous, and speaks several languages (Kikuyu, Swahili, English, and even a little French).

Fun and games

We continually feel impressed by the community of the school, the care that the teachers put in to the programming and supporting the kids, and the events that the school puts on. The kids are really liking their extra curricular activities, which now include circus class.

We’ve been getting together with families for dinners and after school get togethers, which has been lovely. And yesterday was a school-wide Field day, full of fun competition. Our Green Team ultimately won, which was a thrill, and we won an indigenous tree sapling which we will plant on the grounds of the farm.

Nairobi's Greatest Hits, Vol 2

The anticipation of our visit to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust could not have been higher, at least I can speak for myself here. I love elephants. Love. This organization finds orphaned elephants, most of whom are alone due to human/animal conflicts in the parks around the country. They bring them to this center and rehabilitate them for years, where they are closely cared for by their keepers, bottle fed around the clock when young, and eventually, released back into the parks to join wild herds.

Our visit did not disappoint. We were up close with these incredibly playful, wondrous, social, and adorable creatures.

We also went to the National Museum, where we learned about Kenya’s social and natural history.

Next to the Museum is a live snake and reptile center. We had a blast with the turtles and snakes, and especially with the Jackson’s chameleons, who are another personal favorite of mine and the kids.

Also pictured: a tour of Brown’s Cheese Farm and Factory, right down the road from us in Tigoni. And a trip to Limuru to the markets, giving the kids a glimpse of everyday Kenyan life.

These little ones put on quite a show

These little ones put on quite a show

Lake Naivasha

Some friends of friends, who have lived in Nairobi for years, kindly offered to accompany us on our first weekend trip outside of Nairobi. We went to Lake Naivasha, a couple of hours away, and explored the area and stayed the night at cabins right on the lake. We had a great time with many animal encounters. We visited Sanctuary Farm, which hosts wildebeest, impala, water buck, zebra, and countless types of birds. From our camp, we took boats out onto the lake to see the bird life and get fairly close to the families of hippo that bask near the shore.

Two other highlights include visiting a weaving and pottery workshop, and watching a just-born zebra take her first wobbly steps.

Jasper electing to read, while wildebeest and zebra graze nearby

Jasper electing to read, while wildebeest and zebra graze nearby

Tigoni

As we get to know our way around and feel more at home here, we’re appreciating ever more that we landed in Tigoni. The rolling tea fields, the animal and plant life, and the community to be found here are all wonderful. The kids look forward to going to school each day and now have a variety of after school activities too, including tennis, circus, piano, and tae kwon do.

Nairobi's Greatest Hits, Vol 1

We were all duly enchanted by the Giraffe Center. The Rothschild giraffe (the most giraffiest of giraffe) only had about 100 individuals alive in the late 60’s. Since then, as many as 12 have been in residence at the Center and the babies at about age 3 are released back into the wild. Now there are at least 600 in protected areas around Kenya.

We loved feeding them pellets onto their slimy, long black tongues and learning about each animal’s personality from one of the keepers. We got a kick out of the fact that they distinguish between to the types of pellets, as one is healthier and the other more sweetened with molasses. Lilly the giraffe will reject the healthier ones or spit them out.

We also visited Kazuri beads, a factory that employs disadvantaged women who are often single mothers. We got to learn how they source, process, and form the clay into beads and pottery. Willa and I both left with a colorful necklace.

Finding our rhythm

We’re settling in to our lives here in Tigoni. All three kids are really enjoying being in school and are happy to go. The school is so supportive of all kinds of kids, including those with learning differences. There is a culture among the students of making each other feel understood and welcome. They go off for Forest Walks every morning in a diverse forest replete with native species, play soccer with each other every recess, and enjoy some very delicious sounding lunches. We’re starting to make some friends among the parent community and and slowly exploring the local area, which is very green and lush. I think all five of us are happy to get into a daily rhythm and have time for our individual endeavors.

First day of School!

Kids are off for their first (half) day of school this morning. I really can’t imagine a better setting for all of them, and we’re crossing our fingers that they settle in well. Willa is still harboring a lot of worry, but I’m hoping that getting to know the kids and teachers will put her at ease soon.

.... and now for something completely different!

We have arrived in Kenya and are settled into the farm where we’re staying for at least a month. The farm is in Tigoni, a hilly region just outside Nairobi that is filled with lush green tea plantations and rich, red earth. The farm is owned by a British family and it certainly has a colonial tinge. The hallways are dim and long, and I still continue after 3 days to make wrong terms when getting from the bedroom area to the dining room and kitchen. There are several people who live on the property and manage it, cooking food if we request, cleaning up, and caring for the animals and garden. There are horses, some dairy cows, some chickens, and several dogs that wander around.

Getting adjusted to working with staff people is a work in progress. It still feels very awkward.

I’ll leave many of my first impressions of the area for another time, but we feel safe and interested in getting to know this place. Any material good can be acquired here (for a price, if imported) and we’re figuring out our patterns for food shopping, eating, transportation, and now school for the kids.

Speaking of, we took the kids to their school for a ‘sneak peek’ today, to see their classrooms, meet the teachers, etc. Woodland Star is lovely. The classrooms are scattered throughout the grounds, and all have direct access to the outdoors with verandahs and porches. There’s a vegetable garden, some animals both domestic (bunnies!) and wild (Jackson’s chameleons!). The class sizes are small (10-15 kids in each of their groups, mixed ages) and feel very personal and cozy with nooks, climbing walls, cushions, and even fireplaces. Best of all, the teachers we met all seem very engaged and enthusiastic about the school and their work. We are very excited for the kids. Lex slid right in with some of his classmates who have been there for years and loved showing him around. Jasper will take more time to warm up and Willa was extremely excited but also has some worries she’ll have to work through over the next weeks. Her teacher seems amazing, and the classmates we met will hopefully prove to be great friendship opportunities for her. Stay tuned!

The Netherlands charmed us

We have spent the last 6 days based in Haarlem, an old and beautiful small city to the West of Amsterdam. It was a great base for us, allowing us to have easy access by train to Amsterdam and the Hague, to the beaches and dunes by the coast by bike, and charming Haarlem itself. We ate some delicious meals both at home, with food from the market, and out and about. In Amsterdam we saw the Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh, the Vondelpark, and explored the canals both by foot and by Rontvaart (Ha!). We had two warm visits with old family friends, Peter Reiss and Marc Chavannes and his daughter Esther. We also met up with Marc’s son Remy and his wife Saskia, and made a new friend, Ian (a friend of Carl’s and a Wes grad), and his son Enso for a playdate in the park. Enso and Willa were thick as thieves.

I feel very nostalgic for this place, where I spent some time as a 9 year old, and where my family has such connections that go back to Post War, when my Grandfather worked here for the Marshall plan. I loved being able to share my fondness for this place with the kids. We also were graced with very breezy and cool, sunny weather.

Our last day here today was filled with logistics: doing some last minute shopping to prepare for our next chapter (school supplies!), and get all our documents in order. Tommorow, we are off to Kenya. I’m sure the contrast will be significant.

à tout à l'heure, Paris!

We rounded out our return week in Paris with a number of touristy things, such as a boat tour on the Seine, a visit to the Jardin d’Acclimitation, the Pompidou, Luxembourg Gardens, and Sainte Chapelle. We also managed to have more down time than the road trip afforded us, and also saw some friends, wandered the very empty streets, and ate far more ice cream than is reasonable.

All our stuff

When we began to think about this trip, I was so curious how others who travel longer term with kids handle the mechanics of the packing, the stuff, the luggage, etc. I thought I’d share our strategy thus far and how it is working out.

All 5 of us have a piece of luggage that is international carry-on size (around 22” x 14” x 9”). Carl this 35L backpack, I have a carry on/backpack hybrid (the Osprey 45L Sojourn), the boys have this eagle creek rolling case, and Willa has a collapsible 4-wheeled number dubbed Violetta that can be pulled like a doggie on a leash, though it does fall over a lot. Everyone also has a regular backpack. Lastly, we also have one big rolling duffel (the Osprey Shuttle), which holds all the off-season stuff, my art supplies, extra gear and meds, etc. In all, it feels like a lot of space, and we are bringing far more than is absolutely essential.

With the carry-ons, we have the option of leaving more things at a home base and going on shorter trips by plane, car, or train with less luggage.

All of this stuff just barely fit in the trunk of the car we rented for the month so that we could pull the cover over it all. For the entire car trip, the big duffel stayed in the car with all the things we didn’t need. The rest fit in the carry-ons. I ended up putting all the kid’s cubes in boys’ suitcases, and Violetta has now become our shoe bag. We brought a couple of lunch sacks from home, and picked up an insulated grocery bag for picnic items and food storage. Willa has an inflatable booster seat that fits in her carry-on backpack.

Most valuable players so far: packing cubes (a combo of regular and compression). Luckily the boys wear the same size clothing so they share everything. I like having an organizer for all the cords and chargers and converters. Quick dry materials, which are way better than cotton. Lightweight dry bags, which are great for carrying wet swim stuff and laundry. A packable extra backpack. These flat pack toiletry cases. And fully on team roll vs. team fold.

Getting along

This trip hasn’t been entirely smooth sailing on the sibling front. There has been a generous helping of rivalry, fighting, and driving each other crazy. This is understandable, considering all of the newness, the lack of structure, predictability, and comforts of home. And at play is the fact that we have been all together all day every day, often with only each other for companionship. The kids are each responding in different ways.

Jasper struggles at times with the social challenge of operating within a foreign language and place. He can get overwhelmed. He retreats into his kindle, reading for hours when he has the chance and often re-reading the same book series as a kind of security blanket. He would read while walking down the street if we let him. Lex is at a prime age and mentality for this adventure, and has mostly been delighted and engaged with all of the places and activities we have been doing. He’s loved all the historic sites, the architecture, food, landscape, and the decision-making around travel. His major complaints are about his siblings, both of whom push his buttons and vice versa. Willa is often delighted with all the new experiences and people. She can be incredibly brave, energetic, and charming when we are out and about. But she’s only six, and the strain of all the travel and uncertainty does take a toll. She has a serious temper and fairly regularly erupts into elaborate displays of despair or rage. She mostly wants social time and play and sometimes says she misses home. Jasper and especially Lex can deliver this to her at times, and often wonderfully, but not always. We’re trying to see if we can line up some more social experiences for her this week.

This is a big work in progress, to get the kids into comfortable places where they are getting enough of their needs met and so all of us can have a good time. We’re learning when they seem happiest and most even tempered (outdoor, active activity always helps a lot) and how to adapt our plans to suit.

A VERY quiet Paris

We are so lucky to be able to stay in Stephane and Eve’s beautiful apartment in the 17th for the week. They are off on a vacation in Italy and offered us the chance to stay here. After all the moving around, it is nice to take it more slowly and settle in for a while. We’re hitting up some major sights and museums, but also spending plenty of time cooking meals at home, hanging out in parks, and visiting some of the municipal pools in the city. The city is incredibly quiet these days, sometimes feeling almost like a ghost town, aside from around the major tourist attractions. In our neighborhood, for example, many of the shops, bakeries, and restaurants are shut for August vacation. The one store open on our block offers artisanal and very expensive rum.

Burgundy and Fontainebleau

A final night in a countryside Gite on our way back to Paris, with a bike trip among the vineyards of Burgundy, a classic dinner of boeuf bourguignon and escargot, and one last big castle.

The Spectacular Pont du Gard at sunset

We spend two nights getting from Marseille back to Paris. The first night, we headed back into Provence and our Gite was not far from Pont du Gard. It was well worth a visit, and in fact we wish we had been prepared to spend a much longer time there swimming in the river, which was magical and cool in the evening light.