The Magnificent Masai Mara
We landed at another out-of-the-way, family-run lodge in a conservancy along the Masai Mara called House in the Wild. Again, it served as a stunning and comfortable backdrop for our explorations of the area, and the site of many interesting projects within and with the local ecology and community. They also have a farm that supplies fresh ingredients to the lodge, a school that teaches conservation and ecology, as well as several efforts to collaborate with and support the Masai.
The landscape of the area is quite different than at Laikipia, as it is situated in the wide Rift valley and is filled with grassland studded with trees. The vastness of the place is remarkable at all times of day, and is teeming with life.
Jasper unfortunately was felled by a nasty stomach bug, and had to skip many of the drives through the Mara as well as our visit to the local Masai village. He at least had a very beautiful place from which to recover, right on the Mara River, where a family of Hippos lazed about all day making all manner of noises. He made enough of a recovery to join us for the last morning drive.
We saw innumerable animals out there, including scores of giraffe, buffalo, and many types of gazelles, impala, and their cousins. We also had several encounters with the lions, which our guide Boston taught us much about. We met with a couple different prides, one established one and another group with several younger males who were looking to edge into their territory.
Boston is a Masai and taught us a lot about how these conservation areas are being formed, the changing behaviors and incentives for various sets of interests in the area, and the interweaving of culture, ecology, economy, and politics. It’s a fascinating mix to discuss as you drive through the “majestic” landscape, as Willa describes it, and enjoy little ‘sundowners’ on the plains.
In all, this trip was a epic feast that every one of us found exciting and enlivening. Notwithstanding the typical squabbles, complaining, health issues, and many bumpy hours in vehicles, it was an incredible and unforgettable time.
Willa Interviews Boston about Lions
Here is an (incomplete) list of what we saw during the trip:
Animals
Aardwolf, Banded Mongoose, Bat-Eared Fox, Black Mongoose, Black Rhino, Bush Baby, Bushbuck, Cape Buffalo, Caracal, Dik-dik, Dwarf Mongoose, Eland, Elephant, Gerenuk (giraffe-necked antelope), Grant’s Gazelle, Grevey’s Zebra, Hippopotamus, Hyena, Impala, Jackson’s Hartebeest, Leopard, Lion, Marsh Hare, Masai Giraffe, Mouse, Olive Baboon, Oryx, Plains Zebra, Python, Reticulated Giraffe, Rothschild Giraffe, Silverback Jackal, Squirrel, Steenbock, Thompson’s Gazelle, Topi, Vervet Monkey, Waterbuck, White Rhino, White Tailed Mongoose, Wildebeest, Wolf Snake
Birds
African Black Swift, African Fish Eagle, African Golden Weaver, African Green Pidgeon, African Hoopoe, African Pipit, African Scops Owl, African Yellow White-Eye, Augur Buzzard, Black Smith Plover, Broad Billed Roller, Bronze Tail Glossy Starling, Chested Bee-Eater, Cormorant, Crested Barbet, Crested Crane, Crowned Plover, Double Toothed Barbet, Eastern Golden Weaver, Egyptian Goose, Great Headed Gars, Great Sparrowhawk, Great White Pelican, Greater Blue-eared Starling, Greater Flamingo, Hamerkop, Harrier Bird, Helmeted Guinea Fowl, Jackson’s Francolin, Jackson’s Hornbill, Kori Bustard, Laughing Dove, Lesser Flamingo, Lilac-Breasted Roller, Little Bee-Eater, Maribou Stork, Masai Ostrich, Mosque Swallow, Mountain Buzzard, Nightjar, Nyanza Swift, Pale Chanting Goshawk, Pied Kingfisher, Pin-tailed Whydah, Red Billed Oxpecker, Red Grouse, Red-billed Hornbill, Rupal’s Long Tail Starling, Sacred Ibis, Secretary bird, Sparwinged Goose, Spoonbill, Spotted Thick-Knee, Superb Starling, Taita Fiscal, Tawny Eagle, Variable Sunbird, Village Weaver, Vulturine Guinea Fowl, Waddled Plover, White Backed Vulture, White Fronted Bee-Eater, White Rumped Swift, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Yellow Throated Longclaw